Modena is 40 kilometres west of Bologna on the Via Emilia - the dead-straight Roman road that bisects the Po plain - and the two cities have been in a state of productive, mutually suspicious rivalry for several centuries. Modena was the Este duchy; Bologna was the Papal State. Modena has Parmigiano-Reggiano; Bologna has mortadella. Modena produces Ferrari and Maserati; Bologna produces Lamborghini.
For the runner arriving from the Bologna Marathon on a Saturday or Sunday in March, Modena offers a very specific combination: the flattest city in Emilia, the world's most concentrated supercar heritage, the best traditional balsamic vinegar on earth, and one of the most critically acclaimed restaurants in Italy - all within 20 minutes of the finish line by train.
Getting There
The Frecciarossa from Bologna Centrale to Modena takes 17 to 20 minutes. Regional trains on the same route take 25 to 30 minutes and cost less (approximately €3 to 5). Trains run multiple times per hour throughout the day. Modena station is a 15-minute flat walk from the historic centre, or a 5-minute taxi.
The Cathedral and Piazza Grande
Modena Cathedral (Duomo di Modena, begun 1099) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the finest example of Lombard Romanesque architecture in Italy. The sculptor Wiligelmo carved the facade's Genesis reliefs in approximately 1106 - figures of Adam and Eve, Cain and Abel, Noah - in a style so distinct from the Byzantine conventions of his time that art historians still debate the influences. Entry is free. The cathedral is flat at ground level.
The Piazza Grande - the cathedral square and civic centre of medieval Modena - is a wide, flat, market square that has functioned as Modena's social centre since the 12th century. The weekly market (Tuesday and Saturday) fills it with produce from the surrounding plains.
The Enzo Ferrari Museum
The Museo Enzo Ferrari (MEF) on Via Paolo Ferrari combines the redesigned birthplace of Enzo Ferrari (1898 to 1988) with a striking contemporary pavilion by Future Systems. The existing 19th-century house has been encased within a bright yellow canopy structure - an elliptical pavilion of yellow aluminium panels that covers the historical building while providing the exhibition space for the rotating collection of Ferrari road and race cars, Formula 1 machinery, and archival material.
The museum interior is entirely flat - a single wide floor of polished concrete under the canopy. Entry is approximately €18. The collection rotates annually; in March it typically includes several Formula 1 cars from Ferrari's championship-winning seasons alongside road cars from the Testarossa and F40 era.
Traditional Balsamic Vinegar
Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena (Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena DOP) is a completely different product from the commercial balsamic vinegar on supermarket shelves. The traditional version is produced from cooked Trebbiano grape must, aged for a minimum of 12 years in a sequence of barrels of progressively smaller capacity and different wood types. A 100ml bottle of 12-year aged traditional costs approximately €50 to 80.
Acetaia Giusti (established 1605, the oldest commercial balsamic producer in the world) offers guided tours by appointment for approximately €20 to 30, including a tasting that demonstrates the difference between various aged products. Book in advance at giusti.it.
For a simpler tasting: the Mercato Albinelli (Modena's covered food market, open Monday to Saturday mornings) has multiple stalls selling balsamic vinegar alongside Parmigiano-Reggiano and local products. The market is flat, covered, and the correct place to spend a March morning.
Where to Eat
Osteria Francescana on Via Stella is the restaurant of Massimo Bottura, three Michelin stars. A booking requires months of advance planning and approximately €350 per person for the tasting menu. The practical alternative is Trattoria Ermes on Via Ganaceto - a no-reservations Modenese family restaurant serving tortellini in brodo, cotechino con lenticchie (cured pork sausage with lentils), and local Lambrusco at prices that require no budgetary consideration.