The Istanbul Marathon finishes at Sultanahmet Square - the Byzantine Hippodrome, where Roman chariot races were held from the third century AD and where the Egyptian Obelisk from 1600 BC still stands on its original base. The post-race day is a simple case of not going far.
Sultanahmet is the most concentrated two square kilometres of surviving Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman history in the world. None of it requires a taxi.
November in Sultanahmet: The queues that make this neighbourhood nearly impassable in August are gone. The line at the Hagia Sophia, which runs ninety minutes in peak summer, is manageable. Temperatures hover between 9°C and 17°C; some days bring rain, some bring clear autumn light that bounces off the Bosphorus. The roasted chestnut vendors appear on street corners around this time of year.
The Walk
The Hippodrome (At Meydanı) is the finish area itself. The Egyptian Obelisk at its centre was brought from Luxor in 390 AD by the Emperor Theodosius; it still stands on its original base, with Greek relief carvings of Theodosius watching chariot races from his imperial box. The Serpentine Column (three intertwined bronze serpents, originally from Delphi) completes the ancient monuments. All are outdoors, visible without entry fees.
Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya) is two minutes' walk from the Hippodrome. Built by the Emperor Justinian in 537 AD; the largest building in the world for nearly a thousand years. Entry free; remove shoes, women are expected to cover their heads (scarves at the entrance). The central dome is 56 metres high. Allow 90 minutes; arrive before 10:00.
The Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii) directly opposite the Hagia Sophia was built between 1609 and 1616. Entry free; closed to visitors during the five daily prayer times, particularly Friday noon. Interior covered in approximately 20,000 blue Iznik tiles. The walk between the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia at dusk, when both buildings are illuminated and the muezzin calls from the minarets, is one of the genuinely architectural experiences in the world that lives up to expectation.
From Sultanahmet, follow Yerebatan Caddesi north to the Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnıcı): a sixth-century underground water reservoir. Entry approximately 450 TL. 336 marble columns standing in shallow illuminated water; two Medusa heads at the far end, rotated sideways. Strange and worth the descent.
Continue to the Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı) via Nuruosmaniye Caddesi. Sixty-one covered streets, four thousand shops, built in the fifteenth century under Mehmed II. The central Kalpakçılar Başı sells gold jewellery; the side streets carry leather, ceramics, textiles, and spices. Open Monday--Saturday, approximately 08:30--19:00. The interior is mostly flat.
West of the Grand Bazaar, a ten-minute walk along Hasırcılar Caddesi reaches the Spice Market (Mısır Çarşısı). Built in 1664; smaller and more navigable than the Grand Bazaar; sells dried fruits, spices, Turkish delight, nuts, and rose-petal jam. The dried apricots and pistachios from the stalls here are better than anything sold under the same descriptions at an airport.
From the Spice Market, cross the Galata Bridge over the Golden Horn on foot: ten minutes, fish restaurants on the lower level, anglers on the upper walkway. The crossing deposits you in Karaköy, from where the T1 tram returns east to Sultanahmet in three stops.
Post-Race Food
Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi on Divan Yolu Caddesi (two minutes from the Hippodrome) has been serving spiced lamb köfte with white beans and bread since 1920. The line moves quickly. This is where to go immediately after the race.
Balıkçı Sabahattin on Seyit Hasan Kuyu Sokak is a fish restaurant that requires advance booking but justifies it: sea bass and mezes from the Bosphorus, a short walk from the finish.